ICM- Studebaker US6 truck
The first thing I did before starting was to print a copy of the sprue page.
My reason for doing this was that with the information on the first page it was a nightmare to flip the pages each time to find a part as the sprues didn’t have any numbers on them. You need to consult this page throughout the entire build.
Steps 1-3 are the engine/ transmission assembly. It is detailed fairly well for a 1/35th assembly. Extra detailing could be done to smarten it up a little.
The engine is quite basic in its appearance. The above photos show it built without the radiator hose and exhaust.
These two steps build the wheels and tires for the truck.
The tires and wheels are molded plastic not vinyl. The assemblies are made up of two parts consisting of the main part and a sidewall. Something to mention is if you look close the inner wheel has a couple of nubs sticking up near the center. They have to be trimmed flat.
This is the step to try to assemble a fuel tank.
One of the main issues is simply put is the fit of the parts. They’re not good. I had to fill the gap at the top on both sides. It just simply wouldn’t fit!!
As you can see I filled the gap without any problem but it still left the bottom gap and fit problems. I used .020x.080 strips for the sides and .010x.060 strips for the underneath straps. Between all the work with the plastic strip and a little filler, I think it’s a good, fairly quick save.
These steps are the construction of the frame, running gear, and wheels.
This is the frame and running boards. The cross members needed a little filing to get them to fit nicely into the channels.
I’m saving the next two photos to show the running gear issues. Here we go.
One neat thing about the running gear is that it’s molded in one piece. The differentials, transfer case, and drive shafts are the one piece I’m referring to. This assembly also doesn’t come without its issues. I’m showing part #A74. It’s supposed to slide up onto the side of the differential side. It doesn’t. All three of the same parts are too thick. I sanded down the backside and it went in fine.
The way the parts are manufactured leaves an open area that they need to go onto the shaft. Filler will solve that. The other issue is the axles aren’t round. They are oval. If you want the wheels to fit, you will need to make them as round as possible. This is also a concern with the drive shafts also being oval instead of round. They will file into a fairly round configuration if you want to go that far. Another option is to cut them out and replace them with Evergreen plastic.
Further into the build entails adding the wheels and engine assemblies.
These parts of the truck all fit very well. The wheels, engine, and driveline parts all go together without any issues. In both photos you can see the added straps on the fuel tank to repair it.
The rear body assembly is built in these steps.
The rear body goes together without any problems. One option is adding the troop seats. I installed them in the raised position.
The only noticeable thing missing is wood grain. There isn’t any molded on the wooden parts.
These steps involve building the cab assembly. And yes, there are some hurdles in these steps. They aren’t impossible to overcome but the end result will be good. Here goes.
The first issue is quite obvious in that the cab corners and rocker seams aren’t good at all. The two circled areas being the roof top and the lower windshield pillar area need some serious work.
With the doors placed in the openings it gets a little more complicated. The rear rocker seam spreads open more and the windshield pillar area is not aligned with the door frame.
The upper roof seam is noticeable and it runs into the area in the upper door opening. This makes it easier to make one repair.
I hope you can follow me regarding the door fitting issue. It seems the door INNER body is too wide and forces the door opening out. The dark marked area on the body is where I trimmed the lip back to almost being gone. I also had to do it on the rear body lip too. The marked areas on the door are where I had to bevel the inner door a little also. If you keep the doors closed the cut areas aren’t visible and they still fit the hole.
The upper roof/door opening area I filled with CA glue and kicker. I then filed it with a round file to get the shape of the opening corrected.
This is my final fit of the doors using the above alterations. I filled the rocker seams and the seam along the roof. I didn’t scribe the rocker seams back in but I will later. A few reference photos show them there and other vehicles don’t have them. They should be there as it is a separate body panel. Restorers either welded them solid based on what the condition of the cab was and then filled over them.
In step 21, it shows placing the dash decal #26 to the gauge area. When looking at the decal sheet I kept noticing two decals that weren’t referenced. Numbers 24 and 25 looked like the other dash placards in my reference photo. I double checked the instructions but didn’t see them anywhere. If they are there I missed them but this is the correct placement for them.
The two placards in their correct placement.
Also a side note about the dash. My experience was that I painted the dash and installed it after the cab was painted. As a suggestion I wouldn’t do that again. When parts B1 and G are glued together, install the dash and the steering wheel. It was a little ugly trying to get these in after the cab was assembled…my bad.
It needs to be mentioned every other part in the cab construction fit fine but the doors. The front grill had some flash to clean but that was all it needed.
These are the final steps for completion.
These are the parts ready for priming and painting. The cab, rear body assembly, and frame are all tied together in the last steps. I left these unglued to paint. Next time I’ll know better and paint the cab interior prior to this step. In the photo you can see I installed the rear bed bows upright instead of the stowed position.
I primed the parts in flat black then painted it with olive drab tinted with some yellow. Tamiya paints were used throughout. I sealed it with Tamiya semi gloss, installed the decals without any issues, then sprayed Tamiya flat coat on to seal it.
The kit has two driver figures included as a bonus.
They are a very soft grey plastic so this helps in cleaning up the mold seams on them. The detail is pretty good and they go together well. The bad news is they are too tall for the cab. I tried to fit both of them into the cab and the only way they remotely fit is without the heads. So they are good figures but not for this truck.
Final images and thoughts:
These two photos show the distinct styling of the Studebaker truck. The doors are in place, rear bed bows and troop benches.
The rear end of the truck with the tail gate in the closed position It can be posed in either the opened or closed position.
The hood comes off to show the engine. I painted the engine only to the paint guide. It offers plenty of options for detailing it more and adding some goodies.
This kit had some challenges. I however do believe that with the little extra work I had to do in a couple of areas, the final results are worth it. Overall the main fault is the ill fitting parts attachments in the frame and doors.
The figures aren’t usable in this kit, in my opinion.
I think this kit is for all ability levels but a beginner might need some guidance. There is plenty of good detail in this kit. Yes, it is missing the wood detail in the rear body as one of it's faults. There are a few ways to fix or get by that issue.
WWP # 23 Studebaker US6
Recommended for Beginner to Advanced builders.
Thanks goes out to ICM for this review kit.
Reviewed by Merrick "Mac" Johnston
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