TAKOM's M29 Weasel Full Build Review

You can find the first look review of this kit here:    https://www.amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=15189  

TAKOM’s release of the M29 Weasel quickly became a favorite subject among modelers with great anticipation for it’s release.  Soon after its release a couple of build reviews appeared online with one being critical of the kit.  To be fair, the M29 is not a slammer build!  The Weasel is small with small parts.  The build requires a fair amount of modeler experience, the correct tools and most importantly PATIENCE.  If rushed, the results will suffer.  I attribute much of the early and negative criticism of the kit to not following the aforementioned advice.   

For my build I used Revell Contact Professional Liquid Glue predominantly with good results on the kit’s plastic parts.  The tracks did resist the Revell glue, so I switched to the old styled Testors Model Cement.  For the photo-etched parts I used Bob Smith Industries BSI-118 Carbon & Rubber Extra Strength IC-2000 glue.    

TAKOM deserves kudos for their excellent new releases over the last few years for armor enthusiasts to rejoice in.  Each of these kits have displayed a superior attention to detail and excellent design with clean and precise fits.   Sadly, that same level of attention cannot be said of the quality of the instructions. 

The instructions are frequently vague on placement location, angle, alignment, build sequence and relation of parts between steps.  It is up to the builder to look through each step and the next few steps ahead to understand what the instructions are trying to convey.  Also, individual research and reference pictures often solve the lack of clarity in the instructions.   

I divided the assembly of this kit into two sections.  The lower hull with the suspension and tracks (steps 1 - 4), followed by the upper hull (steps 5 - 16).   I also freelanced around the instruction steps where I thought it made sense and to protect smaller parts.   

Lower Hull and Suspension.  (Steps 1 – 4).  While the lower hull, suspension and track only involve 4 steps, this was the slowest part of the build and took the most time to complete.  Patience is absolutely required, along with tweezers.   

Examining the instructions and reference photos I noticed how close the upper track would fit to the hull with little room for painting and weathering.  These would have to be built and painted separately.  Further exploring the instructions revealed that I wouldn’t be able to build the track and road wheels apart from the lower hull for painting.  So, I elected to complete, paint, and apply initial weathering to the lower half before moving on to the upper half.     

Step 1. builds the suspension brackets and arms.  The instructions are a bit vague on the alignment angle for parts A20 (lower idler arms) and Part 24 (upper idler arms).  The alignment of these parts are key for connecting the bogie wheel assemblies (step 2) and will determine how well the track will fit later in the build.    Through trial and error, I found the lower arms should have a downward angle dropping below the bottom of the hull a few millimeters.  The upper arm should also tilt downward with the end resting a few millimeters above the end of the lower arm.  In step 2, the completed bogie assemblies will connect to the end of these arms.      The front leaf springs (parts A14 and A17) is another part that lacks clear instructions.  I had to look at external research of a real M29 to understand the alignment and placement. The instructions and locator marks place the middle leaf spring stop (part E38 and E40) vertically, while the research photo’s show the stop placed at an angle to be flush with the leaf spring once emplaced.  A small error that most would never notice, but easily correctable if desired.   

Step 2.  Tweezer time! I found tweezers absolutely essential during step 2.     

The instructions call for a small flange to be added to the front return wheels (parts A3 and A4)  using photo-etched part TP2.    This is a precise fit requiring careful cleaning of the PE edge and tweezers to place.  Slow setting CA is recommended during this step.    

 For the return wheel and drive sprocket assembly, I kept one half of each wheel on the sprue true as a third set of hands during assembly.    I appreciated TAKOM locating the sprue connecting points between the teeth of the drive sprockets.  This made removal and cleanup easier with less chance of damage to the tips of the drive sprocket teeth. 

I created an alignment jig for assembling the 8 road wheels.  This made the assembly easier and ensured each pair would align in the bogie assembly.        

When connecting the road wheels to the bogie brackets, I found it best to place part A19 first then A21.  Again, tweezers are essential.             

The instructions were not helpful in explaining how the completed bogie assemblies attached to the idler arms.   

After many dry fit attempts and research, I realized that the bogies snapped onto the idler arms and were held in place by small nubs on the ends of the upper and lower arms.   

The fit is quite snug and requires a fair amount of force to snap the bogies into place.  I found that connecting the lower (larger) arm into the bogie then the upper (smaller) one worked best.  Use caution as the upper arm is small and fragile.  I did well until the last set when I applied too much force at the wrong angle and snapped the arm in two.  I replaced it with a styrene rod.         

Step 3 and 4.  With the suspension completed, it was time to assemble the track.  This is a good news  - bad news discussion.  The good news is the track is not a rubber band (although the real track is one) and that the track has fantastic details molded in a mixture of individual links and partial length runs for the upper and lower track.  Dynamic positioning is not an option with the track (although the suspension does have some play to pose over uneven terrain).   

The bad news is that the track fit is finicky and, in my opinion, overly complicated with track connection points designed for specific locations in the track build (instead of common universal track connection for use anywhere in the build).  The size of the individual track link and it’s connection points is rather small and required absolute accuracy when connecting each track link.   Plus, there was not a clear start here point to align the top or bottom run and begin adding the individual links around the drive and return wheels.  This caused multiple re-starts in getting the track to line up around the first end.  I started the track runs around the drive sprocket and used the drive sprocket teeth to guide the individual link placement.   

The kit (and the real vehicle) track spread out as they wrap around the drive and return wheels, perhaps that is a result of the two rubber bands stretching as they travel under stress.   

I painted and weathered my track while still on the sprue tree.  This ensured full paint coverage before installation on the suspension where there would be limited space to paint them (and the suspension) later.  This approach works well, but it does require the builder to remove paint at the connecting points and some small touch ups after installing on the model.   

As each link is placed on the ends of the track run, ensure they are aligned, and spaced evenly while still connected to the connection points.  This is where PATIENCE is key.  I ended up placing each link one at a time, allowing the cement to cure before moving on to the next link.  Slow, but it worked (eventually).   

Upper hull and interior.  (steps 5 - 16).  While waiting for the track links to cure, I worked on the upper hull.  By comparison to steps 3 and 4, the rest of the build was enjoyable and moved along without any issues.  The greatest challenge in these steps involves adding a few tiny photo-etched details.   

Step 5.  This step built the floor of the upper hull and went together without issue.   

Step 6.  This step builds the radiator well and the engine compartment cover.  I assembled the radiator well per the instructions, but I deviated from the kit instruction after that.  I attached the radiator well to the hull floor (listed as part of step 8). 

I jumped a few steps ahead by painting and lightly weathering the bottom side of this assembly at the same time I painted the lower hull and suspension.  Once dried, I connected the hull floor to the lower hull assembly.  

From this point forward I took a bottom up approach to assembling the engine compartment.  This approach allowed by to ensure each part was seated fully to all adjacent sides.  It worked well for my build with a clean and snug fit.  I also deferred until later the placement of smaller parts like levers, knobs, handles to avoid accidental damage.   

Step 7 assembles the internal wall between the engine/drive compartment with the rear seating area.  Along the top of this wall are four stretcher anchors (which can be folded up or down on the real vehicle but are molded in the up position in the kit). 

Are you ready for a challenge?  At the end of each anchor, the instructions call for an excruciatingly small piece of PE which I think is the locking ring for the anchors.  I was fortunate to go 4 for 4 in my attempts to add these pieces without losing any to the carpet monster.               

Apparently TAKOM does expect some to be lost as they provide extra pieces.  The only “extras” in the kit.               

In step 8, I added the final smaller parts to complete this step and the remaining parts form step 6.      

Step 9 adding the drivers controls and seating.  When building the control levers, you have the decision to build the vehicle with or without the driver.  The build difference is with the right hand steering lever.  The steering lever (part D6) has the drivers hand molded in place, while (part E19) is just the steering lever.    Make the right choice because accessing this part to change your mind is nearly impossible later on.           

Step 10 connects the upper hull to the lower hull.  Already done back a few steps for my build.   As an option, a builder could keep these two halves apart until everything else is built and painted, then connect and weather to taste.  The fit is snug and produced only a faint seam line between the halves.   

Step 11 builds the upper hull side walls.  The instructions were not clear on placement of parts C2/C3,  and C7/C8 onto the larger side walls (parts C23/C24).  Through multiple dry fits and examining reference photos I found it best to add parts C2/C3 onto C23/C24.  The placement of parts C7/C8 become clear afterwards.    The PE parts (TP5) are mounting brackets for the frame of the canvas cover (not included in the kit).  These parts need to be curved into a loop and then attached at the well-marked locations on the side walls. 

The kit did not provide a bend jig for these parts.  I used tweezers as the bending jig, and the PE was malleable and responded well to bending.   

Steps 12 and 13 assemble the SCR-510 tactical FM radio.  The radio is well molded and includes the two side handles and the main power cables connecting the upper and lower halves.  The kit also includes two waterslide decals to add some realism to the radio.  I built the radio and added a vehicle supplied power cord, cables for the handset and antenna wire (not in the photo).  I will install the radio at the end of the build.    

In step 14, part C11 is a bending jig for the exhaust grill cover.  It is not a part of the Weasel.  Why did TAKOM label it with a part number and illustrate as a part in the instructions can be confusing and lead to damage of the PE part if accidentally glued together.   Placing the exhaust grill cover was confounding as I expected it to lay flat atop the exhaust.  Research photos showed it as an angled fit just like in the kit.             

Step 15      Mask both sides of the windscreen before adding other parts.   Add the windscreen wipers (PE parts TP18) at the end of the build after painting, weathering, and sealing so the masking can be removed.           

Step 16  Adds the final surface details and went together without issue.                       

The driver figure assembles well with good detail.  The figure fits precisely into the driver’s seat the arm connects to the hand on the right steering level with minimal fuss.    Oddly enough, TAKOM did not include a weapon or any personal gear for the soldier.                       

As mentioned in the in-box review, the drivers head is abysmal.  Replace it.  I did with a Hornet head without helmet which fit well into the TAKOM helmet.  Conversely, the TAKOM helmet is among the best I have seen in 1/35 scale.  Exceptional sculpting.               

Decals.  I used the TAKOM supplied decals for the SCR510 radio.  These were fantastic with great detail and sharp images.   I applied the decals over a clear semi-gloss base and set them with Micro-Sol setting solution.  A final coat with clear semi-gloss had the radio ready for weathering.   I will use the TAKOM kit decals for the windscreen markings, drivers station instrument dials and data plates inside the Weasel hull.  

For my build, I supplemented the TAKOM decals with custom created decals to depict a M29 Weasel in service with the 237th Engineer Battalion during the attack on Aachen in September 1944.     

Paint and Markings.  After a prolonged delay following the untimely demise of my air compressor, the M29 Weasel is now complete.  While waiting for the new air compressor to arrive, I decided to give the Weasel a roof.  Using the reference materials listed at the bottom of this review, I scratchbuilt the roof frame from styrene rod that fit nicely into the mounting brackets already included in the TAKOM kit.   

I sized paper templates for the canvas roof sections – the rear panel with two windows, the front panel surrounding the windscreen, the roof panel, and four drop-down “doors”. 

I used coffee filters for the canvas and cut them to sized based on the paper templates.  Once cut and sized to fit (with multiple dry fits), they were painted with multiple acrylic washes in medium brown and highly diluted black.  The final two coats were washes of Green Bean oil paint.  

In the real M29, the canvas “doors” and the rear panel have sewn in clear vinyl windows.  I used cling wrap surrounded by narrow strips of coffee filter “canvas” to portray these windows.  The window borders were added on both sides of each panel window.  My build would show three of the doors rolled up and tied in place, so only the fourth door received a window insert.  The front canvas panel includes canvas loops that held wire used to cinch the canvas onto the windscreen.  These were added using more coffee filter strips sized to match the windscreen.   

With the roof frame installed and the canvas panels ready to be added, I turned back to painting the Weasel.  I primed the build in grey enamel and pre-shaded the panel edges with black acrylic.  

The base coat is Mission Model Paints (MMP) Olive Drab Faded 1.  More panel shading was done using MMP Olive Drab Faded 2 along the outer edges followed by MMP Olive Drab Faded 3 in the panel centers.   The pre-painted lower hull and tracks are wrapped in cling wrap for protection while painting the rest of the M29.    

< Photo -  Base Coat On >   

Decals areas were prepped with gloss coat and allowed to dry before applying the decals.  The TAKOM kit decals went down beautifully and were easy to handle.  These sat down on the model surface with some decal setting fluid.  Once set, the decals were sealed again with gloss coat.    The rest of the build included painting the smaller detail items such as lever handles, pioneer tools, headlamp interior were hand painted with Vallejo acrylics.   This was followed by a pin wash using Tamiya’s Black Panel Line Accent Color. 

On the exterior, I added multiple black oil washes using vertical strokes to age the Weasel.  Once the oil was fully cured I applied AMMO by Mig Rainmarks Effects with a flat brush dampened by Turpenoid.   

The radio and internal wiring was added followed by the stowage items (from Value Gear and my spares box).  Finally, the TAKOM Driver figure was added along with his M1 Garand resting on the engine access panel.       

The Weasel was then sealed with AK Interactive’s Ultra Matte Varnish.  

The roof panels were added beginning with the rear panel first, followed by the front panel.   Then the roof was added with a few minor adjustments made to improve the fit.   

The final steps included adding the windshield wipers, the headlight lens cover, the antenna,  some fuel stains, a light wash of rust on the front grill, muffler, and tow pintle, and pigment for dirt along the lower hull, track, and suspension.   

The completed build portrays the Weasel as the 237th Engineer Battalion command vehicle entering Aachen in the 3rd week of October 1944.  

I found these reference books extremely helpful when scratch building the roof framework and as a supplement to the instructions, as a few of the steps and part placement details are not sufficient as a standalone guide.     

• The first is “Images of War M29 Weasel Tracked Cargo Carrier & Variants” which covers the development of the Weasel in both narrative and photos, followed by three chapters on the T15 / M24, the M29 and the M29C.  A fantastic book full of invaluable information and photos.     
• The second book is the M29 & M29C Weasel, U.S. WWII Studebaker from the Tankograd TM series.  48 pages of technical drawings and up close details about the Weasel, its component parts, and related equipment such as radio sets commonly found in a Weasel, along with numerous photos of the Weasel in use.     

Highly Recommended for experienced modelers at the intermediate or advanced skill levels due to the challenges in building the suspension, the track, and for the small size of the PE parts.   

Thanks goes out to TAKOM for this review kit.

Reviewed by Brian Eberle

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