Tamiya - Panzerkampfwagen I Ausf. B (Sd.Kfz. 101)

Please see the First Look Review at https://www.amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=15323

Before beginning construction, choose one of three options, depicting a Panzer I B in Poland, France, or Russia. The choice will not only determine which decals are used, but also some optional parts. My build will depict a tank from the 4th Panzer Division,  in France, Spring 1940.

Step 1: Construction begins with inserting a firewall into the hull bottom, followed by the two lower hull sides, then the rear and front hull plates. Note that the assembly sequence is numbered. All the parts fit snugly, no problems noted.

Step 2: For both sides, after putting a polycap into the final drive, attach the drive to the designated location, followed by the first road wheel suspension arm. Attach part A3, a return roller support arm.

Step 3: in the first sub-step, attach the two tow hooks, followed by the left side cover, B49. In the next sub-step, insert rod B12's round end into B49, and while attaching the right side cover, B48, insert rod B12's keyed end into B48. In Step 4, attach the two idler arms, A8; the two inner idler adjustment covers, A21; towing pintle B63; and depending on which option is being built, either rear light B13 or B62. This is B13 in the above picture.

Step 5: Attach the axle to the one piece sprocket wheel; glue together the two-part idler wheels; glue together two three-part road wheels, consisting of the wheel between two rubber outer tires, which will go on the first road wheel station. 

Step 6: Attach the sprockets, idler wheels, road wheel to first station, and four return rollers. Note the last return roller has a notch in the return roller for the top track length to fit into.

Step 7: Build up eight three-part road wheels, sandwich two of them between the bogies (A10 and A11).

Step 8: Pay attention to the direction the bogie assemblies are attached to the suspension arms, as depicted in the instructions. Then attach the suspension beam, again per the instructions, to the bogie assemblies.

Step 9: Following the sequence Tamiya recommends, first attach the top length of track, locking it into position with the track pegs fitting into the last return roller's notch. Continue attaching the link and length tracks according to the recommended sequence. Tamiya provides a close-up drawing to ensure correct track direction. This was definitely one of the smoothest track link and length builds I've ever done.

Step 10: Insert engine vents B55 and B46 into upper hull, then attach upper hull to fender/glacis plate. Attach driver's vision port plate, and three vision ports, noting the direction of the vision ports. If building option C make a hole in the left hand fender as shown in the drawing.

Step 11: Attach the upper hull to the lower hull, attach lifting hooks A1 to the glacis and left side hull, lifting hook A7 to the engine deck. Attach lower half of driver's hatch B23 to hull, and driver's vision port B9 to front plate.

Steps 12 and 13 are attaching tools, jack block, fire extinguisher, headlights, front tow hooks, and driver's hatch top part. Since I paint all the tools off the vehicle and it still hasn't been painted, they'll be shown in a later series of pictures.

Step 14: Insert photo-etch muffler heat guard into jig C14 (left above), then using jig part C13 (middle above), bend the photo-etch part down. I left it clamped overnight, and it still had some springiness in it when trying to bend the side in with C13. 

Step 15: Build up the five-part exhaust, attach to rear hull B56, along with B52, then attach the photo-etch heat shield over the exhaust, through rear plate C3, then bend photo-etch arms inwards around C3 and glue down with CA glue. Tamiya recommends using a metal primer before painting the heat shield, which I did. 

Step 16: Build the four-part jack assembly and attach wire cutters B14 to the jack assembly. Like other tools, this was built and painted separately.

Step 17: Attach rear hull plate with exhaust to hull assembly. Although directions call for attaching the jack, a tanker's bar, and part C11, possibly air intake for the transmission, those were left off until the hull was painted.

Step 18: Build up the two-part antenna trough, attach the antenna mount, antenna, antenna trough, two lifting hooks A1, and if building Option A, part B45 and associated decal. Except for the antenna mount, these were left off until hull painting was done.

Step 19: Paint the two MGs, insert into the gun mantlet. Paint and insert B21, possibly a gunner's sight. Note that the guns are staggered, gun B34 goes into the right hand side, gun B38 goes into the left hand side. Attach two plates, B4 and B6 as depicted. The close-ups were too blurry, so no picture of the gun assembly.

Step 20: Attach turret top to turret ring, attach three lifting hooks A7 to turret top. Attach parts in numbered order: first insert gun mantlet into turret, then attach plate B57 on the turret top, over the mantlet. Attach two vision ports A12 to turret rear and vision ports B6 and B7 to left and right turret sides. Tank was primed with Vallejo Black Primer, then painted with the Vallejo Dunkelgrau German Dark Grey paint set, using Dark Grey, Dark Sea Green, German Grey, and Light Grey, along with Satin Varnish. Decals were applied with MicroSet and MicroSol. Tracks were painted with Tamiya Dark Iron XF-84, and all tools and equipment were painted with Tamiya colors per the instructions.

Step 21: If building Option C, attach light B43 to left hand fender. Attach tow cable ends to tow cable, then attach the tow cable to the front glacis. If the modeler does not want to attach the tow cable to the front glacis, then three large mounting holes will have to be filled. Attach commander's hatch, either open or closed. If closed, then remove the two small pins from the outer hatch surface. Attach turret to hull top. If building Option A, attach the identification plate A23 and decal 10 to left hull side.

Step 22: Choose which head will be used, attach arms and head, paint and attach decals and holster. Uniform was painted with Tamiya Flat Black, XF-1, and flesh was Lifecolor Flesh Base Color 1 and 2.

Size matters!

Lifecolor Dust sprayed on, heavier on the suspension and lower hull.

PROS: Overall a terrific kit, classic Tamiya. Clear, well-laid out step-by-step instructions, with notes to install some parts in numerical sequence. Parts are flash-free and there are very few sprue knockouts; there are four small ones on the commander's hatch inner surface, and that's it. There were no fit problems, optional parts are clearly marked, so there should be no problem building the correct option. One 3/4 figure is included, with two optional heads and headgear. Decals for the three options look good, went down well, to include the ones for the figure's uniform. The one piece of photo-etch comes with a two-part jig and clear directions on how to bend it. The link and length tracks, although very small, went together without any problem, and Tamiya's use of a notched return roller and two small pins on the upper track run make attaching the tracks easy.

CONS: As usual for Tamiya, no interior details other than the MG receivers and a small platform for the commander figure. Not a big deal unless the driver's hatches are left open - a second figure could be sourced to fill that opening. The MG gun barrels are not slide molded, and so a very small drill bit and steady hand will be needed to open up the barrel.

Highly Recommended for Beginner to Advanced builders. Although no marking or parts are provided for a tank serving in the North Africa campaign, there are probably aftermarket options available, making this a candidate for the upcoming AMPS International show with the show theme of African Armor.

Thanks goes out to Tamiya America, Inc. for this review kit.

Reviewed by Joseph "Mac" McDaniel

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