Slat Armor for the M1126 Stryker Infantry Carrier Vehicle

As described in my First Look review (https://www.amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=15362), this is a fantastic detail set and is well worth the cost.  

I split this review into three parts. 

• Overall Impressions:
• Integration of the Black Ops Models Slat Armor Detail set into the AFV Club instructions; and
• My Build.   

Overall Impressions. 

Fit and Detail.  The Black Ops Models engineering and design was spot on.  The parts fit extremely well on the AFV Club M1126 Stryker.  The detail on the 3D printed parts exceeds most injection molded kit parts.

As an example, here is a side-by-side comparison of the Black Ops Models 3D printed items next to the AFV Club kit counterpart.  Note the individual tie towns are hollow, allowing the builder to add straps inside the tie downs. 

Print Quality.  3D printing quality was excellent.  I saw only a few few 3D print stratification lines in the parts that can be common with lesser quality 3D printed products.  First class printing!

Resin Durability. The resin used in the Black Ops Models 3D prints is quite durable.  I handled the 3D printed parts just like injection molded plastic parts with only a couple of breaks that were easily repaired. 

I did see some warped parts on the larger pieces like the slat armor panels.  The resin was flexible enough for the warps to mostly straighten out when connected together.    

Separating the parts from the print supports.  Removing the 3D printed parts from their support arms was easy.  For most of the connection points, I used tweezers to grab and twist the supports away from the printed part.  For thicker connection arms, I used sprue snips to free the parts.  One of the main differences in freeing 3D printed parts when compared to injection molded parts is the number of connection points.  3D printed parts have significantly more attachment points and do require more time to free the part.  Modeling patience is required here. Once the 3D printed part is free, I found minimal need for clean up to remove connection point.   The larger parts, such as the space armor and slat armor panels required some sanding, yet the smaller parts such as the stowage items came free quite cleanly. 

Cement.  Like other resin products, modelers need to use CA cement during the build.  I used different types of CA cement based on the cure time required.  For the resin parts requiring more handling time, I used CA cements with slower cure times combined with tweezer clamps to set the part in its correct location. 

Accessory items.  In the First Look review, I mentioned the array of stowage items provided in this kit.  Freed from their print supports, I can see them in greater detail.  Black Ops Models certainly provides lots of stowage and accessory items for this kit, all with superior detail and excellent quality. 

The Black Ops Models (BOM) provided stowage items.

Here are a few photos of the BOM detail items next to it's AFV Club counterpart (Green items). 

Black Ops Models Instructions.  The fun (sarcasm) part of adding an aftermarket detail or conversion set is figuring out where and when the upgrade parts fit into the kit assembly steps. 

The Black Ops Models (BOM) instructions rely on photographs that show the kit parts in their final location.  These photos are at a macro level that skip some of the detail needed for part placement and alignment.  I struggled at times (see Step 8) to understand where and when to add the BOM parts into the AFV Club build sequence.  A couple of the steps include a sentence or two explaining their recommended assembly, but these weren''t always helpful.  

The BOM instructions provide minimal cross reference to the AFV Club instructions.  Actually, BOM instructions tell the modeler to build the full kit per AFV Club instructions, then continue with the BOM instructions.   In the next section, you'll see that isn't quite accurate.  

Integrating the Black Ops Models set into the AFV Club instructions. 

Based on my build, and my errors, these are my recommended assembly steps for integrating the Black Ops Models (BOM) parts into the AFV Club instructions.  Hopefully they will help other builders to complete this upgrade kit. 

• Steps 1 – 5.  Follow the AFV Club instructions for steps 1-5 as written.

• Step 6 and 7.  AFV Club part F2, F3 and F8 are used with the BOM resin wheels and tires.  Skip the other AFV Club parts in this step

• Step 8. The AFV Club instructions show the builder adding the wheels to the build.  I recommend adding the wheels after painting and weathering.  Builders’ choice. 

• Step 9. BOM instructions tell the builder to skip AFV Club step 9.  However, the builder will return to step 9 later to place the pioneer tools (AFV parts C7, C8, C11, C13, and C20) on the BOM spaced armor tool rack (see BOM instructions step 5).   I recommend painting and adding the pioneer tools once the Stryker is painted and before adding the Slat Armor.    

• Steps 10 and 11. Skip these steps completely.   

• Step 12. Only add AFV Club parts C4, E5, F19, D16, D17, and C12 here.  The AFV Club side armor with baskets from steps 10 and 11 are not used.  Don’t add the Black Ops spaced armor at this step.  The spaced armor will be added either in AFV Club step 19 (or 27) when the upper and lower hulls are connected.

• Step 13, 14, 15, 16, and 17. Follow the AFV instructions fully for these steps as written. If the rear troop hatch doors (AFV Club part F9) are positioned open, the builder should add the BOM machine gun mounts before installing the hatch doors.  See BOM step 12. 

• Step 18.  Follow the AFV Club instructions to add the light assembly brush guards and to build the headlights in sub-assembly E, F, and G, but do not attach them to the Stryker hull.  These headlights will be mounted on the BOM light extension arms (Part 5F in BOM step 14).  I recommend adding the extension arms and headlights during AFV Club step 27. 

I also recommend adding the AFV Club mirror assemblies after step 27 to prevent damage during follow-on assembly and detail painting. 

• Step 19.  Follow the AFV Club instructions except for the antenna mounts (parts B47 and F15).  Add the BOM antenna mounts here from BOM instructions step 14.  I chose to connect the lower and upper hulls back during step 19 (after the commander’s station periscope were installed).  This made steps 20 and beyond easier for me, with less chance of surface detail damage later. 

Once the upper and lower hulls are connected, the builder can then add the Spaced Armor shown in BOM instructions (step 4). 

The BOM spaced armor panels have upper and lower “L” shaped mounting brackets that snap in place using the bolts on the Stryker top deck as alignment pins.  The spaced armor panels are a snug fit.  After a few careful dry fits, I anchored them in place with slow setting CA cement and tweezer clamps.

• Step 20, 21 and 22. Follow the AFV Club instructions to build the Remote Weapon Station (RWS) and its mount.  Don’t connect the RWS mount to the Stryker.  Set this aside until painting.  This will make accessing the periscopes (located below the RWS mount) simpler for hand painting the periscope lenses (or applying reflective stickers) and to detail the RWS.  I did add the spent shell chute and catch baskets to the RWS using floral wire and coffee filters.  I also prepared the RWS to accept power cables after it was painted. 

• Step 23.  Replace the AFV Club M2 Heavy Machine Gun (HMG) with the Black Ops Models M2 HMG paired with the builder’s choice of barrel (BOM instructions step 15).  The BOM linked ammunition belt does not scale out as .50cal for the M2 HMG.  Same for the ammunition boxes.  Both of these scale out for 7.62mm ammunition.  I replaced the BOM linked ammunition belt with another from my spare parts box. 

• Step 24.  Follow the AFV Club instructions with the builder’s choice on weapons. 

• Step 25.  Follow the AFV Club instructions to build the rear hull wall and door.  Test fit the BOM rear ramp slat armor parts here.  I recommend removing the existing bolt heads on the AFV Club parts E8 and E13 where they contact the BOM parts.  This will greatly improve the fit of BOM Slat Armor part. 

• Step 26.  Follow the AFV Club instructions to build and place the rear light assemblies.  Do this before adding the rear Slat Armor as part of AFV Club step 25.  Replace the AFV Club water and fuel cans with the BOM cans.  I recommend adding the cans after the Stryker is painted, and before the Slat Armor is installed. 

• Step 27.   Follow the AFV Club instructions for the remaining parts, and add any parts or assemblies that were not added previously including the:

o   Light assembly extension bars (BOM part 5F).

o   Exhaust cover (BOM part 6R).

With the AFV Club build steps completed, the builder can focus on the steps in the Black Ops Models (BOM) instructions. 

• BOM step 1 (Wheels).  Completed in AFV Club steps 6 and 7.  

• BOM step 2 (Basic Kit Assembly).  Completed in AFV Club steps 1 - 27.  

• BOM step 3 (Rear Slat Armor).  Keep the pegs on the backside of the BOM rear slat armor panel parts.  These are stand-off spacers.  Don’t cut them off only to scratch replacements (like I did). See AFV Club step 25 for recommended steps before adding the Rear Slat Armor.   

• BOM step 4 (Additional Armor).  Completed in AFV Club step 19.  

• BOM step 5 (Basic Kit Assembly (Pioneer tools)). Set aside until after painting.     

• BOM step 6 (Side storage baskets).  Completed in AFV Club 19.   

• BOM step 7 (Slat Armor Assemblies).  The BOM instructions have the builder connect all the panels together for installation as a single part on each side of the Stryker.  Separating the Slat Armor Panels from their support arms took some time.  There are hundreds of tiny connection points to remove.  Unlike the smaller 3D printed parts, the panels required some sanding to clean up the connection points.  The sides of the Slat Armor panels have alignment pins and depressions for connecting the panels. 

Ensure all the external surface bolts are facing outwards when connecting the Slat Armor panels. 

A few of the larger panels were warped, requiring some attention to correct before installing.  Connecting the panels was straight forward with minimal challenges, other than trying to remove the warp. 

• BOM step 8 (Slat Armor Mounting Brackets).  I struggled with the instructions for this step.

The BOM instructions tell the builder, “drill 1mm holes and fit the Top Brackets including the Top Bracket with Flange and Rear Bracket with Flange.”  Sounds simple enough, but where exactly do I drill?  The instructions do not provide specific instructions to locate where the brackets (and their holes) belong. 

After studying the BOM instructions and multiple external references, I had a rough idea where the top mounting brackets belong, but I wasn’t confident enough to drill holes.   I literally took 3 build days trying to locate the exact position where the top brackets go, and where to drill.  The answer finally revealed itself when I looked ahead to BOM step 13 for the blast armor that goes atop the Stryker deck. The blast armor panels have notches along the bottom wall where the slat armor mounting brackets passthrough.  A quick dry fit of the blast armor side panels revealed the answer. 

 This is a top-down view of the slat armor mounting brackets and their location as described above.      

I then moved on to the mounting brackets L7, L8 and L9.  The inward ends of these brackets connect to the spaced armor panels, with the opposite end connecting to the solid plates on the slat armor panels. The alignment for L8 is horizontal from the spaced amor plate, while L7 and L9 angle upwards.   

Multiple test fits with the slat armor cage helped set the alignment, as do the diagonal ends of these parts where they connect to the spaced armor. 

I used slower setting CA cement to set these mounting brackets into the spaced armor and then adjusted their alignment by dry fitting the slat armor. 

The BOM step 8 instructions could benefit from a graphic showing the location and angle for the top, side and rear mounting brackets.  Something like this perhaps…… 

 Each mounting bracket has a part number embossed at it's end – check the instructions for correct placement.  These numbers are quite small, and quite helpful.   

The Rear Bracket with Flange connects to the hull deck in a 1mm hole drilled into the existing deck bolt.  This bracket extends horizontally to the top of the rear slat armor cage.    

The Angled Rear Bracket connects at the corner lifting point and angles down and away towards the bottom of the rear slat armor cage. 

I repeated these steps on the right side of the Stryker. 

• BOM step 9 (lower slat armor panels). The lower slat armor mounting brackets have specific locations where each lower bracket would go, and each lower bracket is individually numbered at the end of the printed part.  L1 through L6 and R1 through R6.  Alignment is clear for these parts – they go straight outward at a 90-degree angle from the chassis. These were installed easily, and a test fit of the lower slat armor panel was perfect. 

• BOM step 10 (aerial bases).  Added during AFV Club step 19. 

• BOM step 11 (Side door slat armor panel).  I set this aside until after painting because of my intended 2 color paint scheme. 

• BOM step 12 (Troop door machine gun mounts).  This is optional for open hatches.  I kept all the hatches secured so I skipped this step. 

• BOM Step 13 (Blast Armor).   I started with the rear blast panel then worked the side panels forward.  This worked well without issue.  The rear blast armor sections come with 2 options.  Parts 5E allows the two doors to be positioned individually open, while 5D has the doors closed.   Builders’ choice. 

• BOM Step 14 (Small Parts).   These parts include the front headlight assembles (AFV Club) that mount onto the light extension bars (BOM parts 5F), the exhaust cover BOM part 6R), the front armor panel  

Headlight assembly on the BOM extension arm.  Pay attention to the angles when mounting the headlight assembly onto the BOM part 5F.  The headlights should point forward and be level when mounted correctly.   The mounting brackets connect to the front lifting eyelet in the slot between the Stryker armor plates.  

I added the Stryker horn during the AFV Club step 27.  I recommend removing the existing bolt heads where the horn mounts onto the Stryker.  I also added one of the AFV Club tie-down brackets under the BOM Horn as seen on many Stryker’s to tie down the horn power cable.  A PE fret of four tie downs are included in the AFV Club kit.  They can be added anywhere the builder desires and covered with one of the many spare bolt heads also provided in the AFV Club sprue tree A. 

Front armor and mounting brackets.  Part D includes two separate pieces with the larger one as a corrugated metal and hangs vertically down form the nose of the Stryker.  The other Part D is a smaller mounting bracket that fits inside the notch of the corrugated metal mounted onto the Stryker nose. 

Note: Remove the front brush guard connections points on the Stryker nose for part D to fit snug against the AFV Club hull.  

• BOM Step 15 (Weapons Station).   See the AFV Club steps 20 – 23. 

• BOM Step 16 (Mesh Screens).  Even with a fresh blade, the mesh screen fractured in multiple places.  I replaced them with nylon mesh from my spare parts box.   The mesh cuttting jig is a helpful tool in the kit and works extremely well.  

My Build.  With the Stryker and it's sub-assemblies built, it was time for painting. 

Preparation for painting.  Prior to painting, I used a liquid mask on the connection points for the parts to be added after painting (e.g., RWS mount, M2 HMG, wheels, slat Armor panel support arms, water and fuel cans, pioneer tools, etc.).  Masking these areas kept the plastic surface free of paint, allowing the cement to connect plastic parts later. 

I dry fit the driver hatch door during the build, so I could apply the reflective lens film to the driver’s periscopes after painting. 

I also dry fit the commander RWS during the build.  This allows me handle the RWS separately from the vehicle once painted.  If the RWS is glued in place, I find it difficult to add and paint the smaller details on the RWS.   This includes adding non-reflective film to the commander’s periscopes, adding power cables and reaching into the inner nooks and crannies on the RWS. 

Painting.  To make the slat armor distinct from the Stryker, I chose to paint them in in NATO Green in contrast with the Stryker U.S. Army Desert Sand paint.  As BOM recommends, I painted them separately before connecting these together.  

I added some post shading highlights with a custom mix of US Army Desert Sand and British Sand Yellow Modern (MMP-039) then top coated the build with a gloss coat and set aside to cure for about 18 hours.  

While the gloss coat was curing, I painted the many stowage items and subassemblies left off from previous steps.   This included the Pioneer tools, CREW antenna, M2 HMG with ammo strip, water and fuel cans, and some stowage boxes. 

BOM Wheel masks.  One of the multiple nice touches that BOM provides in this set is the 3D printed wheel masks.  2 are provided and they work extremely well and made painting the tires simple and efficient.  Thank you Black Ops!    

Decals.  I applied some of the AFV Club smaller decals, along with some homemade decals for vehicle 6 (Platoon Leader), of 2^nd Platoon, B Troop, 1^st Squadron, 2^nd Stryker Cavalry Regiment.   The decals were top coated with some more gloss coat and allowed to cure overnight. 

Initial weathering.  

Before adding the wheels, slat armor panels and the taller surface details, I weathered the underside using a bottom-up approach.  

I flipped the Stryker on its top and went to work. 

The undercarriage received a couple of Sepia oil washes and some enamel streaking. 

I built up some dirt in the corners and crevasses using a mix of pigment and fixer.  

The final bottom-up weathering added some splatter using the same pigment soaked in orderless enamel thinner.  In the photo, the weathering is still wet and dark.  The weathering lightens up once dry. 

With the bottom weathering done, I removed the protective liquid mask at the wheel connection points.    

The weathering was sealed with a layer of AK Ultra Matt Varnish. 

I weathered the wheels and tires with more of the same pigments and binder.   

Adding the final sub-assemblies.   With the underside completely weathered, I flipped the Stryker up to add some details items including:

·       Periscope anti-reflective stickers on the drivers and TC’s hatch doors.

·       Straps to the Pioneer tools made from masking tape and the BOM small ratchets.

·       Power cables for the driver’s horn, the RWS and the headlights using nylon thread.

·       Fuel and water cans with straps.

·       A tow cable made from 0.9mm diameter nylon cord with the AFV Club tow eyelet.  

·       SKP Models headlights and lenses. 

·       Mounting the wheels.   

Slat Armor Painting and Weathering.  I primed the slat armor with Vallejo Grey (VAL74601) and airbrushed with Mission Models NATO Green (MMP -034).  A protective layer of Clear Gloss preceded a couple of washes using AK’s enamel Wash for Green Vehicles (AK045).  The slat armor also received an initial coating of acrylic dust airbrushed in multiple light layers for continuity with the Stryker, then sealed with a top coat of AK Ultra Matt Varnish. 

Connecting the Slat Armor.  I lightly sanded the inside of the “U” shaped mounting bracket where the slat armor fits into.  This greatly improved the slat armor fit into the mounting brackets.      

When installing the lower slat armor panels, I found it simpler to turn the Stryker on its back again with one hand holding the Stryker and the other placing the panel into the mounting brackets. 

This approach also reinforces the recommendation to not add any of the surface details (wire guard, RWS, antennas, etc.) until the very end of the build. 

When adding the side slat armor sections, I started at the rear connection then moving forward until the alignment is correct.  Gentle pressure on both the slat armor and the mounting brackets to seat the slat armor panels fully into place.  Once positioned, I cemented the angled mounting bracket arms in place. 

The two front mounting brackets were also lightly sanded with multiple test fits until the front slat armor panel fit fully in place. 

With the slat amor in place, I added more bottoms up weathering with more dust added.  These dust layers are extremely light coats, almost like a mist done in multiple layers until the desired effect is achieved.  I let the coats dry before adding subsequent layers.  

Flipping the Stryker right side up, I added the final surface details to include the Remote Weapon Station (RWS),   side mirrors with mirror stickers, and the Counter-IED Duke Antenna (from Blast Models) followed by another light coating of dust.  

Final layer of dust added.  

I thouroughly enjoyed this build.  The 3D printed slat armor is so much easier to build than its's photo - etch counterpart.  I look forward to building another, and perhaps a set for the other Stryker variants, in the near future.  

Highly Recommended for Intermediate to Advanced builders.

Thanks goes out to Black Ops Models for this review kit.

Reviewed by Brian Eberle

AMPS Secretary / Membership Coordinator / Boresight Distribution / Seminar Coordinator

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