StuG III Ausf.F/8 Late Production

To read the First Look review of this kit click on the following link: https://www.amps-armor.org/SiteReviews/ShowReview.aspx?id=15180

As I said in the First Look review of the kit, I had not build a BLITZ kit before.  I have to say I was impressed with the kit.  It met all of TAKOM's stated criteria for a BLITZ kit: the parts count was relatively low, it was a easy and quick build and the level of detail was very good.

In general the parts fit was excellent, there was no need for any type of filler and little to no need to sand a part to achieve a good fit.  Care must be taken when removing parts from the sprue.  For some smaller parts the size of the sprue attachment point was large in comparison to the size of the part and it was difficult to determine where the attachment point ended and the part started.  The inclusion of the metal barrel is a plus and the winterketten tracks molded as one piece as opposed having to add them to the basic track is a major plus.

The only downside to the kit, and it is a minor downside, is you are limited to winter camouflage schemes by the winterketten tracks.

And so it begins...

TAKOM begins assembly in the normal fashion with Steps 1 and 2 building the left and right suspension.  Everything assembled with ease and there were no issues noted with this part of the build.

Moving on: Steps 3, 4 and 5 build the road, and idler wheels as well as the drive sprocket and return rollers.  There was a little flash that needed to be removed from the idler wheel spokes and seam lines from the road wheels and return rollers. The mufflers are well detailed with a hollow tailpipe end and with the exception of the tailpipe end none of this will be seen. So you needn't spend time tidying up the seams on the mufflers.

Step 6 builds the rear of the engine area.  Be aware of how you remove the parts from the sprue.  On many of the small parts it takes close examination to determine where the sprue ends and the part begins. I feel the ease of assembly of the rear area is dependent on the order the parts are installed.  TAKOM does not specify any particular order for assembly, but my first attempt had to be taken apart because I couldn't get photo-etch grill TP1into place as the last piece.  I found the best order of assembly for me was; exhaust deflector M26, then fit supports M13/M17, next add PE grill TP1, then heat shields M1/M2 and finally rear plate M33.  The remaining parts installed with no issues.

Staying on Track

Steps 7 and 8 build the tracks and front hull armor.  Each track link had two knockouts that needed to be tidied up.  While the track links were still attached to the sprue I used a chisel to quickly scrape away the knockouts.  This initially left a very rough finish on the inside of the links.  Once assembled I brushed a little liquid glue along the inside of the tracks to smooth out the chisel marks.  I find this approach to be faster than sanding each individual link.  

Note: DO NOT remove the small horizontal "bump" on the track extension.  It should be there.

TAKOM correctly specifies the exact number of links needed to complete the track run.  Once the tracks are assembled ice cleats are added to every third track to complete the winterketten. I can say this was one of the easiest track runs I've done.

Note: the ice cleats and raised lettering on the road wheels and that the rough finish on the inside of the tracks has disappeared.

Step 9 is dedicated to constructing the fenders.  I waited to install the tow cable ends until step 13.  Installing them at this point would mean trying to slide the copper tow cable into the bottom of the ends as they sat flat on the fender.  There were also several knockouts on the underside of each fender.  I sanded these away with course grit sanding sticks.  In hindsight the model would have to be flipped over and the gap between track and fender would need to be intently studied to see the knockouts. 

Top Stuff

Steps 10 and 11 assemble the superstructure.  The instructions show installing hinges for the rear roof hatches.  I did this and regretted it later.  My hinges were slightly out of place and wouldn't match up with the hatch installation in step 20.   I cut mine off and replaced the only part of the hung visible after the hatches were in place with a piece of plastic rod.   The difference was not noticeable.  I would recommend test fitting the roof and hatches before installing the hinges in step 10 or simply wait to step 20 to install the hinges.  I also recommend installing the very delicate grab handles at the end of the build.  Mine easily snapped off.  

The instructions add the tow cable hangers at this point, I left mine off until I added the cables at the end of the build.  The brackets are tiny PE parts that are bent into a U-shape with a small 90 degree bend at the point where it attaches to the vehicle.  This proved to be troublesome and once attached the 90 degree bend would not be visible behind the cable, so I exercised some modeling license and just used a simple U-shape - no 90 degree bend.  The tow cables look great and will actually fit into the cable ends once you give the cable a couple of twists to tighten the weave. 

Step 11 has you build and install a set of binocular sights.  In order to use the sights the rear hatch has to be left open and there are no other internal details.  I left mine off.

Step 12 adds detail parts to the engine deck.

There were no assembly issues associated with any of these steps.

Step 13 adds the fenders to the casement and engine deck and Step 14 mates the completed the upper hull assembly to the lower.  Adding the fenders to the engine deck and the casement is somewhat fiddly. There is little contact between the casement and the fenders and only slight alignment guides.  The completed assembly must be square in order sit properly on the lower hull.  

I added the fenders to the engine deck and quickly test fitted the assembly to the lower hull making sure the fenders were level (no downward sagging) and they were making contact with the lower hull along their entire length before the glue had a chance to set.  The casement was added to the fender assembly and everything was once again checked to verify it was level and making contact along the length of the lower hull.

Step 14 - attaches the completed fender assembly to the hull.

Steps 15 and 16 continue adding detail parts to the upper hull.  I added an I-beam frame behind the spare tracks because in my opinion it just didn't look right with the tracks just slotting into a shallow tray a on the back of the engine deck.  I carefully drilled out the lever handles on the tool brackets and used a very sharp blade to square off the holes. Not a big deal but it is noticeable.  The rear fender mud flaps have shallow knockouts that needed to be removed.

Steps 17, 18 and 19 construct the 7.5cm Stuk 40 L/48 main gun. There was an issue with fitting the barrel into the mantlet, a wedge of plastic about two thirds of the way down the mantlet was blocking it.  I am not sure if I missed cleaning a sprue tab or if it was an error in the manufacturing process.  I ended up running a drill bit the size of the barrel though the mantlet removing the blockage. 

Step 20 builds completes the top of the casement. 

For the Birds  

The first and only problem I had with this kit was building the PE "birdcage" cover for the gun sights.

TAKOM provides a bending template for the birdcage so it should be easy to bend and build it.  

Put the flat PE piece on top of the dome shaped template and simply bend the legs around the it. If it were only that simple.  Once the legs are bent around it an octagonal frame is pressed and glued about half way down the birdcage.  The problem is the legs like to move around on the template as the frame was pressed into place. I finally managed to get all the legs aligned correctly and the frame pressed into place and of course I manage to glue the frame not only to the legs but also to the template.  (My bad not TAKOMs)  I managed to work the assembly loose after the use of a lot of creative expressions.  After the CA had set I straightened the legs and trimmed any excess brass. This assembly also glues to a plastic octagonal piece that provides the bottom of the birdcage.  I glued the plastic base to the casement roof and decided to install the birdcage after painting was complete.  I did not want to damage this through handling.  That said, an experienced intermediate or advanced modeler will be able to handle this without too much trouble.  I believe TAKOM should have provided a plastic version for the less experienced modeler. However, the kit can be completed and confidently displayed without the birdcage.

Finishing up

Finally step 21 completes the assembly by adding the MG34 and the two rear hatches. As a reminder this is where I recommend attaching the roof hatch hinges.  They will easily align with the hatches at this point. The white plastic rod I used for the hinges is visible at the rear of the casement.  The radio antennas are added at this point.  Their diameter is oversized and the builder would be better served using thin brass wire or stretched sprue.  (The antennas will appear in a later image)

The Build Isn't Over until the Airbrush Blows

I chose to model my StuG as from SturmGeschutz Abteilung 203 Eastern Front, February 1943.  I used a basic tropical paint scheme under the winter camouflage since many StuG III F8s were originally destined for the Mediterranean front before being diverted to the Eastern Front.  I used MIG Ammo dunkelgelb and olivegrun paints.

I oversprayed this with thin coats of thin coats of Ammo light grey lightened with Ammo flat white, letting the original camouflage pattern show through.  I then sprayed the centers of panels with a flat white darkened slightly with light grey.  Next I mixed a custom winter wash consisting of brown, green and yellow washes and applied this a a pin wash to all recesses and around tools etc.  I also dry brushed greens and yellows around the vehicle popping the weld lines into view.

Lastly I added a light snow cover to some horizontal surfaces.  The snow was made using AK snow microballoons and fixed in place using pigment binder.  The packed snow on the fenders, tracks, wheels and suspension is made from slightly diluted AK diorama Snow Terrain and pushed into place with an old brush and a toothpick.  The birdcage, MG34  and oversized antennas are finally attached. 

Conclusion

This is a great kit that builds into an excellent representation of a StuG III F.8.  There were no real issues during construction as the kit parts would just fall into place and only minor frustration with the birdcage assembly.  The winterketten and ice cleats provide an interesting visual, making this kit stand out above other StuGs.  The kit can be further enhanced by the addition of external stowage available from numerous sources or the addition of a scratch built stowage rack on the engine deck.  Many StuGs would have old hatches and engine deck covers welded to the sides of the superstructure for additional armor.

Highly Recommended for Intermediate to Advanced builders and to beginners with a few kits using PE parts under their belts..

Thanks goes out to TAKOM for this review kit.

Reviewed by Brian Campitella

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